2 Piece Mold of 6” Swim Whiz
This tutorial will walk you through the process of making a two piece mold for a fishing lure.
Determine where you’d like the parting line of the lure to be. For demonstration purposes, we are drawing a line on the lure for easy reference using a permanent marker.
Using Alumilite’s Synthetic Modeling Clay, begin building a base (approximately ½” thick) under the lure and up to the blue parting line we’ve established on lure.
Continue to build the base of clay and the sides of the lure until you reach the parting line.
Once you’ve built the clay up to the parting line, smooth the edges using one of Alumilite’s clay tools to make a clean parting line on the lure where the two halves of the mold will split.
Continue to smooth the remaining clay out which will make a smooth seam line and create very little flash.
Use a popsicle stick or any other similar shaped item to create your pour and vent holes. This will create the area in which you will pour the resin into the mold and the vents which will allow the air to escape the mold to prevent air bubbles from being trapped in your finished casting.
Note: You can choose to cut your pour and vent holes after you pour both halves of your mold if you prefer. You can also cut in locators into the mold after you pour the first half of the mold prior to pouring the second half. This is completely a preference of the mold maker. For demonstration we are adding them in prior to pouring the first half of the mold.
At this point you can add locators to the clay. Here we are using some clear marbles that are pressed halfway down into the clay. These will create negative craters in half of the mold which will help align the two halves of the mold.
You are now ready to make a mold box around the clayed up lure to contain the silicone rubber.
Using Alumilite’s 3” Corrugated Strips, size up and cut through one layer of the plastic to quickly and easily make a perfect custom fit mold box.
Continue constructing the mold box by cutting off the excess strip and making sure it is a tight fit to the clay.
Glue the edges of the corrugated box together to prevent the rubber from leaking.
Now the mold box is constructed and sealed, we are ready to pour the first half of our silicone rubber mold.
Measure the proper amounts of base and catalyst of High Strength 2 silicone mold making rubber. If you need help figuring out how much silicone is required for your piece, use the Calculating Volumes page on this site (found on the tool bar above). If you have the ability to degas the silicone it is recommended but by no means required.
If you do not have vacuum, simply brush on the first coat of silicone rubber over the lure and then continue to pour the mold box full starting in one corner and allowing the rubber to flow naturally to fill the box. Brushing the silicone on will squeegee the air off of the surface and paint on a skin coat of silicone that will not allow air to hold onto the surface of the lure. Bubbles that can no longer hold on to the lure will float to the top away from the mold surface giving you a great mold of the lure.
Continue to pour the rubber into the mold box from the same spot in which you started pouring. Allow the silicone to flow naturally over the piece to reduce the chance of trapping or creating air in your mold.
Continue to pour the High Strength 2 until the complete lure is covered up by approximately 3/8”-1/2” of silicone. Allow the silicone to cure overnight.
When the rubber has cured (hardened to a flexible rubber), you are ready to flip it over and begin removing the clay.
Begin by flipping the mold box over and removing the mold base.
Carefully remove the clay but be sure NOT to remove the lure from the first half of the silicone rubber mold. It is very important to not even break the seal between the lure and the first pour of silicone rubber. This seal prevents the second pour of silicone from leaking between the lure and the first half of the mold which will mess up your parting line.Carefully remove the clay but be sure NOT to remove the lure from the first half of the silicone rubber mold. It is very important to not even break the seal between the lure and the first pour of silicone rubber. This seal prevents the second pour of silicone from leaking between the lure and the first half of the mold which will mess up your parting line.
Carefully remove the clay making sure not to remove the original lure.
Continue removing the clay as well as the marble locators.
Spend the time necessary to clean up all clay residue around the lure and the seam line. Paper towel and a little rubbing alcohol may help the cleaning process. Do NOT use rubbing alcohol on a painted lure as it may smear or remove the paint messing up your original. Once the clay has been completely removed, you are ready to apply release and pour the second half of your mold.
Using either Alumilite’s UMR release or Rubber to Rubber Mold Release, apply release to prevent the second pour of Alumilite’s High Strength 2 silicone rubber from bonding to the first. Note: Release is not required unless you are pouring onto another silicone that you do not wish to bond it to. Silicone only sticks (or bonds) to another silicone. This is why we did not need any mold release on the first half of the lure that was laid up in clay.
If you do not have either of Alumilite’s release agents, use a very thin layer of Vaseline to prevent the silicone from bonding to itself.
You are now ready to mix up your second batch of silicone rubber, degas it or brush on the initial layer, and pour the remaining silicone over the second half of the lure to complete your two piece mold.
Continue to pour from one corner and allow the rubber to flow naturally, as you did with the first half, to prevent unnecessary air entrapment.
Continue to pour the rubber until it is covered by 3/8”-1/2” thick of silicone and allow it to cure overnight.
Once the rubber is cured, remove your mold box and prepare to separate the two halves of the mold.
Begin to separate the mold on the seam line.
Follow the seam line down and continue to separate the two halves of the mold.
Once apart, remove the original from the mold as well as the vents and pour hole pieces. Now you have an exact mold of your original bait.
Using an Alumilite Excel Knife, cut small reservoirs in the mold at the top of the vents and pour hole to open them up. These openings should only go half way down the vents and pour hold and should not be close to the actual lure. Then simply put the mold together and use tape to hold it in place. Do NOT over tighten the mold and this will distort your lure. The locators will line up the two halves of the mold and will simply need to be held in place.
Mix equal amounts of Alumilite White thoroughly and slowly pour the mixed resin into the mold through the pour hole. Alumilite White is extremely thin and flows very well into the mold which will pick up the exact detail of your original lure. Microballoons or Tungsten can also be added to the resin to increase or decrease the density.
The resin will begin to turn to an opaque white color as it begins to harden (at the 3 minute point). Demold time for the Alumilite White is approximately 5-10 minutes. The demold time can be shortened by preheating the mold to 120 F prior to pouring the resin.
Once the resin is cured and you are ready to demold your cast lure, remove the tape.
Begin separating the two halves of the mold as you did when making the mold.
Open the two halves of the mold to see your piece and remove it.
Here you can see what the actual lure will look like when you first remove it from the mold.
It is highly recommended to deflash the lure with a razor blade shortly after demolding as the resin will be slightly soft while it is still hardening making the task much easier than when it fully hardens.
Here is the bait after the flash has been removed along with the original. Screw eyes can be added before pouring by simply laying them in the mold prior to pouring or can be screwed in after the lure has been cast.
